A WEEK IN THE DALES: MY DIARY
Friday
Starting out on the long trip north, I was unsurprised to find that the roads were horrendous. To help motorists share their pain, it seemed that the National Highways agency deemed it necessary to divert everyone heading up the west side of the country up the east side instead. Still, the Dales beckoned me on, and when I eventually left the main roads and saw the fells ahead, I couldn’t help but smile. Arriving in Leyburn, I booked into The Grove House and headed straight out for food at The Sandpiper Inn for a delicious dinner!
I started the day with a quick walk up the Leyburn Shawl. According to who you believe, the name of this limescale escarpment is an old word that means a shady hill and woodland. Or, and this is the version I prefer, its name relates to the time when Mary Queen of Scots was imprisoned at Bolton Castle and lost her shawl. I then went for a stroll around Leyburn, stopping to purchase sausages from Hall’s Family Butchers and also things I didn’t really need but wanted from the always friendly and helpful folk at The Walking Shop. I spent the rest of the day driving around various locations, such as Constable Burton and East Witton, taking photos, and eating a rather delicious pie
outside the Richard III pub in Middleham. Back to Grove House to get ready for a school reunion that evening only to discover I had no cufflinks. So, obviously, the only place I could buy any was from the local gun shop! Then to school reunion where we all stood around baffled by how old we all now are.
Sunday
I had spent a lovely day spent with friends Jackie and Mike. Mike was on the fell rescue team with my dad when we lived in the Dales! Ate lots of cheese and cake, went on a smashing walk down to the river, ranted about various things happening in the Dales and elsewhere, and probably got a few ideas for future storylines! Then off I trundled to Hawes, settled into my cottage for the week, and headed straight out to The Fountain for a couple of pints and a natter with the landlady, Mandy.
Monday
Four seasons in one day! Madness! I started the day with an early morning run in the wrong trainers. The roads were flooded. The fields were flooded. Did this stop me? Nope. I ended up on my bum a lot. Then it snowed. I got back to the cottage muddy, cold, and laughing. Abut also realizing that I needed some new trainers needed. So off I went to Castleberg Outdoors in Settle, an amazing little shop with a superb range of gear. On the way, I spotted snow on the fell tops and stopped to gaze Ribblehead Viaduct, surrounded by the three peaks of Ingleborough, Wernside, and Pen-y-ghent. I only needed one pair of trainers, but bought two just in case. Had toasted teacakes in Ye Olde Naked Man Café, then headed back to Hawes through the rain, stopping on the way to buy cake from a farm. The rest of the day was supposed to be writing. Instead, I ended up in the pub with an old friend laughing through old memories.
Tuesday
Took a lovely walk around Hawes, popped into the auction mart and drove across Gayle beck. Did a bit of writing and had a very necessary snooze. I then drove over the Buttertubs Pass and up through Swaledale to Reeth. Of course, I had no choice but to enjoy a pint in the Black Bull (I could very happily live in Reeth, I think). That evening, I picked an old friend up from Garsdale station, which is rather like stepping back in time, then ate rather posh food at The White Hart in Hawes. The fire decided to do a very good impression of a grumpy volcano and covered the room in ash. Thankfully, we’d already finished eating.
Wednesday
For breakfast, we ate those sausages I’d bought in Leyburn, then headed up Beggerman’s Lane and into Wharfdale. Blowing a hooley! It was lovely to follow the river and we ended up at The George Inn, in Hubberholme for lunch. What a pub! Candles, a fire burning in the stove, it’s an ancient place that has changed little over the years. Hubberholme church is beautiful and, like much of Wharfdale, is a setting from the new All Creatures Great and Small series. We then headed to Kettlewell, where I took lots of photos and ideas for books, then did a bit of off-road driving, taking a gravel lane from Kidstones Bank all the way over the moors to Staling Busk, then onto Semerwater. After that, we took the Cam High Road from just above Burtersett to the top of Beggarman’s Road, which was certainly bumpy! We were lucky enough to see two owls hunting and heard the burbling melody of a few curlews. I then took the brave step of trying battered Wensleydale cheese for dinner.
Thursday
Lovely walk across the fields to Hardraw. The flood levels had fallen, and the way was dry. I treated myself to coffee at Simonstone Hall and was tempted to not leave. I then followed the route back to Hawes across ancient flagstone paths. Then it was back in the car and over the Buttertubs Pass again. Following another stop at the Black Bull in Reeth, I then hotfooted it over to Richmond, for photos, ideas, and a truly astonishing pie from the Proper Pie Shop. That afternoon, I met with a rather delightful bunch of folk to discuss the next Grimm event, and finished off the day with another meal at The White Hart.
Friday
Bidding a sad farewell to the Dales, I drove home after no sleep courtesy of a sore throat that made me feel like I was swallowing broken glass. On arriving home, I immediately booked my next trip north, in July!
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